Goyard has been making trunks and travel goods since 1853, yet it remains one of the least publicised luxury houses on the planet. There are no glossy advertising spreads, no influencer gifting sprees, no direct-to-consumer online store. Instead, the family-owned maison relies on three pillars to keep demand high: scarcity, craft, and heritage. Scarcity comes from a tightly controlled retail network—only around 40 boutiques worldwide and no authorised e-commerce. Craft is visible in the distinctive Goyardine canvas, a triple-layered mix of cotton, linen and hemp coated in natural resin and hand-screened with a chevron pattern that resembles interlocking Ys. Heritage sits in the archives, where the company’s original trunk-making ledgers are still written by hand and the client list ranges from European royalty to modern creatives who value understatement over splashy logos.
Why Collectors Chase Goyard
Exclusivity: With production intentionally limited, most pieces are sold only in-store, creating the sort of wait-list culture normally reserved for Swiss steel sports watches. Personalisation: Nearly every flat piece of Goyardine can be hand-painted with initials, stripes, crests or even bespoke motifs, giving each bag its own story. Weight: The coated canvas is lighter than full leather yet hard-wearing, making large totes and trunks comfortable in daily use. Discretion: The chevron pattern is instantly recognisable within the cognoscenti yet subtle in a crowd, appealing to buyers who prefer quiet confidence over overt branding.
The Allure of Goyard Bags
Goyard’s handbags sit at the intersection of practicality and cachet. The Anjou reverses from leather to canvas, doubling its look without adding bulk. The Saigon mixes wooden trunk-style battens with contemporary top-handle flair. The Bellechasse’s fixed side panels stop the tote from flaring out, preserving a clean silhouette. Each design respects travel-goods DNA—simple geometry, strong stitching, minimal hardware—while still fitting modern wardrobes. Compared with louder counterparts, Goyard pieces age gracefully; the resin softens, the canvas develops a gentle sheen, and the hand-painted monogram takes on the owner’s patina rather than cracking or chipping.
St Louis PM Tote: The Icon
No Goyard discussion is complete without the St Louis PM, the house’s best-known bag and a masterclass in restrained design. Introduced in the early 2000s but inspired by a 1960s beach tote, the St Louis PM measures roughly 34 × 28 × 15 cm, weighs under 600 g, and folds flat for travel. Its appeal rests on five key attributes: Lightweight construction: A single piece of Goyardine is stitched to a leather trim, keeping the bag feather-light even when full. Reversibility: The tote can be turned inside out, exposing a raw linen-cotton interior for a more relaxed, beach-friendly look. Durability: Despite its soft feel, the coated canvas resists water and scuffs; many owners use the bag as a daily workhorse for laptops and shopping runs. Paired pochette: Each St Louis comes with a detachable zip pouch, useful for keys or a phone and often repurposed as a clutch. Subtle status: The chevron pattern reads refined rather than flashy, signalling taste to those who know without shouting at everyone else.
What Makes the PM Size Special
While the GM offers more volume, the PM hits a sweet spot for city life. It sits comfortably under an airline seat, holds a 13-inch laptop in a sleeve, and still slips over a winter-weight coat sleeve without fuss. The drop length of the rolled leather handles keeps the bag tucked close to the body, avoiding the flapping often seen with larger totes. For many collectors, the PM becomes a gateway piece: approachable in size, available in the widest range of custom colours, and versatile enough to shift from office commute to weekend market.
Colour and Custom
Goyard releases the St Louis in eleven standard hues—from classic black with black trim to bright orange—plus seasonal limited editions. The ability to add hand-painted stripes or initials gives each bag an individual stamp while also enhancing resale value; monogram removal is possible, but many buyers seek out unique designs as proof of the brand’s artisan touch. Personalisation takes four to six weeks and is completed in the Paris or Beverley Hills atelier using time-honoured brush techniques, not vinyl transfers, so the paint bonds into the canvas layer.
The Investment Case
While fashion should first serve lifestyle, it’s worth noting that St Louis PM totes have held or appreciated in value over the past decade, especially discontinued colours. Limited supply, stable retail pricing, and strong secondary-market demand combine to keep resale prices buoyant. Buyers who maintain the shape with a removable organiser and avoid over-loading the handles often recoup most of their outlay if they decide to sell.
Caring for Goyard
Maintenance is straightforward: avoid prolonged sun exposure, wipe spills promptly with a soft cloth, and store the tote flat in its dust bag when not in use. Small surface marks on Goyardine usually lift with a damp, lint-free cloth, while leather trims benefit from an occasional application of neutral conditioner. Because the canvas is resin-coated, harsh solvents and leather creams should stay clear of the chevron panels.
Final Word
Goyard occupies a rare corner of the luxury landscape—steeped in heritage yet deliberately out of the spotlight. The house’s refusal to chase volume through flashy marketing, coupled with its commitment to handmade craft and personalisation, makes each bag feel like a private commission. The St Louis PM tote captures that ethos in one deceptively simple form: light, practical, customisable, and instantly recognisable to those who value understatement over hype. In a world where many luxury logos compete for attention, Goyard demonstrates that true status whispers.
